I sampled some of Melbourne’s finest roasted coffee at the Black Coffee pop up last weekend. Continue reading
Words About Travel
Unique cultural travel experiences, tips and advice
Category Archives: Travel
Most scenic places I’ve been: Tad Fan Waterfalls, Bolaven Plateau, Laos
Tad Fan Waterfalls Bolavan Plateau Laos
We peered out from a rickety wooden fence to look at the view. Wow. Parallel streams flowed down 120 meters to the pool below. The strong current smacking the rocky shelf half way, before descending further into a misty cloud. I stood mesmerised following one splash all the way down. We went to the restaurant balcony and zoned out on the view over lunch.
How to get to the Tad Fan Waterfalls:
1. Hire a motorbike from Pakse head East on Road 13 for around 40 km towards Pak Song
2. A tuk-tuk will take you to the falls for US$20 flat rate (source Travelfish.org)
3. The local bus costs 15,000 kip, and departs from Pakse’s Southern Bus Terminal (source Travelfish.org)
From my 2007 Asian Diary – Ourechoes.com
65 Degrees Café – Boutique coffee roasters with buzzing baristas
65 degrees café, Exhibition Street, Melbourne
Lunch in Melbourne CBD can be difficult to navigate for a visitor. The city makes you work to find its treasures. It is well known for hiding bars down maze-like laneways for example. Sometimes, I find it is like an expedition to wade through the high street past cookie cutter cafés to unearth a cosy corner for a tasty treat. However, there are plenty of them lurking under the skin of the city you just have to know where to look.
Melbournites in general are a relatively laid back bunch, however, when it comes to coffee they don’t mess around. Coffee even has its own language here; long black (americano), flat white (latte), short mac (Macchiato).
Most scenic places I’ve visited: Ko Wai, Thailand
Most scenic places I have visited - Ko Wai, Thailand
This series is a visual ode to the most scenic places I have visited. I want to pay my respects to the places I have travelled for giving me such rich and memorable encounters. Hopefully, in the process I might also encourage others to go out and explore the world and be respectful and mindful of its beauty.
The photograph was taken from a sea kayak we had hired for the day on an attempt to circumnavigate the tiny island of Ko Wai. As the island has no roads, no cars or other means of transport except a few small dirt paths the only way to get around is by sea.
En route, we passed dazzling turquoise coastlines, amazing coral life and jungle terrain that flowed almost to the shore. What is not shown however, is my terror.
As we moved further around the island, the waves became increasingly choppy. We started taking on a lot of water. The wind also picked up slightly making it more difficult to steer and avoid the coral and rocky terrain that lurked underneath the surface threatening to damage the kayak.
When, we eventually did make it back, minutes before sunset fell. We all yelped a ‘wohoo’ as we arrived safely ashore. Dragging our sea soaked, exhausted bodies to the bar for a well deserved Singha beer.
How to get here:
From Bangkok take a bus to Laem Ngop pier then take a ferry to Ko Wai. Alternatively, take a ferry from Bang Bao on Ko Chang
Life in melbourne and pics of our first months in Australia
Hi All,
Just a short one to let you know how things are going. We’re still living in Melbourne in the same funky neighbourhood. The person who’s place we are living in keeps extending her time away which is great for us. I have made good progress on the job front and should be able to start soon. We have been working on some of our web projects in the mean time and are learning lots and making good progress. I’m currently helping some of our mates in Amsterdam launch a drum and bass music label on-line (www.easternpromiseaudio.com) and we have 3 other websites to work on, so no shortage of things to do.
Apart from from that, we are enjoying ourselves. We are getting further acquainted with our neighbourhood and other funky suburbs of Melbourne. I enjoy walking to the Library most days (about 40 mins) where I usually use the internet and resources in the afternoons. We often also walk back home from the city centre in the evenings and explore various suburbs at the weekends, sampling more of the great café’s and cheap eats that dot the streets.. The grittiness and abundance of quality graffiti around our area ( Melbourne inner suburb called Fitzroy) also makes for some great shots. I recently picked up a great lens for our camera at a garage sale and am enjoying it to the fullest with all the cool things to photograph around our area.
[singlepic id=471 w=600 h= float=center]
ABOVE:Graffiti wall in Fitzroy, Melbourne. Graffiti of this size is actually quite common around the neighbourhood.
BELOW: One mouth watering sandwich at Babida last weekend. One of the many great bars and café’s in Fitzroy, Melbourne.
[singlepic id=472 w=600 h= float=center]
We also did a coach surf a few weeks back at the start of the great ocean road which was a great experience. Very nice host, great food and cliff walks on the coast of south east Australia. So everything is moving on nicely, except for the fact that the winter has hit here (damn you southern hemisphere!) . Things could be worse though, with temperatures at the level of your average Irish summers day…
I have added a good few photos that we took over the last view months roaming around. You can have a look through them below. Enjoy:
[nggtags gallery=Australia,…]
The pictures above are all images I have uploaded for Australia, If you click on one to enlarge it, you can browse through all of them in large format by clicking the left or right buttons. To see the image gallery for each location separately, Please check the Gallery pages from the menu at the top.
Ayatthuya, Thailand – a 3rd class train ride, a relaxing at Baan Lotus guesthouse & a lot of temples
After a one night stop over in Bangkok with the usual long islands and some dinner at Hemlock restaurant we went on to catch the third class train to Ayutthaya from Hua Lamphong station in a pretty hungover state.
getting-some-air_third-class-train-to_ayutthaya_thailand
To our surprise the ticket price for the 3rd class two hour+ long train ride was only 75baht (about E1,90) for the 5 of us. We found some seats in the rickety but pretty clean coach without windows and soon departed. We crawled slowly through the the city, stopping at small stations or just grinded to a halt on the track on various occasions – we passed many track side shacks and restaurants which you could touch if you reached out of the window. After about 1hr15Min’s we where out of the city and going through swamp lands and rice paddies ricketing across the occasional river. Simmered out, after all the fresh air and mesmerizing views of the train ride we headed out of the station and took the small ferry across the river (the former capital of Ayutthaya is on an island surrounded by rivers) which we shared with some locals and monks. We found a coffee and had some food while Vourneen set out to find us a nice Guesthouse.
The ferry accross the Chao Praya River in Ayutthaya
We ended up staying at the Baanlotus guesthouse, which is one of the most relaxing and enjoyable guesthouses we found in Thailand so far.[singlepic id=295 h=130 float=left] The guesthouse sits on a big plot of land with an impressive size lotus pond behind it and a covered jetty running over the middle of it. The back of the pond is surrounded by dense woodland which adds a very rural feel to it. The Guesthouse is run by a dotty pensioner biochemist who had to come back to Ayutthaya after her parents past away to look after the house. As she had so many international friends come over that she decided to start a guesthouse. She has many enchanting stories to tell and the pond is full of fish, some very large lizards and even a 30 year old turtle that pops its head up occasionally.
[singlepic id=293 h=120 float=right]From this relaxing place we set out to explore the old capital ruins, many temples and the old trade settlements over the next 2 days, while having relaxed lunches at the river side and eating at the local night market stalls. we visited the museum in the old Japanese settlement which gave a lot of information about trade and foreign influence. It also showed the important role the Dutch VOC shipping company had played in the area by documenting and mapping the surroundings and trade relations.
Ayutthaya has a very relaxed atmosphere and not too much to offer in the form of nightlife but we got extremely relaxed and were almost sad to leave Ayutthaya after the 3 days we had stayed. However, we had spotted the prospects of a reggae festival so were ready to head to Chiang Mai on the evening of the 19th of January…
Find a selection of pictures from our visit to Ayutthaya, Thailand below. You can also visit the gallery page for a slideshow of these pictures.
[nggallery id=11]
Koh Chang & Koh Wai – Snorkling, Kayaking and Motorbiking
We had decided to travel from Bangkok to Koh Chang by first class government bus which was more comfortable and trustworthy then using the private operators from Khaosan road. The only problem with this was that we had to get up pretty early in to catch a taxi to the bus station which was slightly tricky with our pattern of getting up around noon and partying until late at night. We ended up being stuck in traffic for most of the cab ride and stopping in front of the bus just as it was getting ready to depart. Luckily our mates taxi driver had taken them over the express way which meant that they had arrived early enough to buy us a ticket and hold up the bus a bit.
Vip bus from Bangkok to Koh Chang
A bus ride, ferry crossing and about 7 hours later we found ourselves within the palmed surroundings of Koh Chang (island) where we hitched a ride on a songthaew (communal taxi service) to Lonely beach. As many places had been booked out due to high season Vourneen had booked us in to a place called Sunflower bungalows, which was run by a very relaxed German guy and his Thai staff. The place had a very nice atmosphere and bungalows of various quality and price, set in a landscaped garden. We got comfortable and then headed to the beach – which was a couple of hundred meters away for our first sunset across the sea. One thing that amazed Vourneen and me is the sheer amount of development that happened since our last visit to the island in 2007. Lonely beach a very laid back area back then is now a big party place full of late night parties, bars with even an open air cinema screen on one of the beach resorts. It was as the owner of Sunflower aptly said no longer lonely in any way. We went on to have some nice food at nature rocks – a beach front resort with a good restaurant and the beach front and ended up back in our usual evening pattern of bars and cocktails.
Sunset splash Lonely Beach Koh Chang Thailand
The next 2 or 3 days or so were spend in the increasingly routine way of getting up late, some hungover lazying at the sunflower restaurant with a fruit shake and breakfast. Then heading for the beach, going for a swim, heaving a beer, going for some food, watching the occasional monkey play at the roadside, and heaving a party at varying bars and at our bungalow.
After these days we decided we should get a bit more active and agreed to do some beach kayaking the next day to one of the uninhabited islands of the beach. What we had not foreseen however was that there was another party going on that evening at the Magic Garden bar and resort, which would get quite out of hand, particularly as Chris ordered us 5 buckets of Long Island ice tea by mistake (he had wanted to order 1 bucket and 5 long island ice teas). Needless to say things went downhill quite quickly from there and we ended up getting to the beach kayak place after 4PM which didn’t leave us with a hell of a lot of time to chill at the uninhabited place. We did our little excursion none the less and felt a bit better for it. After this we decided that it became time to actually start doing something during the day from now on..
Magic Garden Bar Long Island buckets Lonely Beach Koh Chang Thailand
The next day we agreed to rent a motorbike and set out to explore a bit more of the islands different beaches and nature. We drove south to find some very chilled beaches, and then drove on to basically the end of the road. Where I gave Hans some driving lessons on a quiet patch of road as he had never driven a scooter or motorbike before. All of us really enjoyed the drive and we decided to the the same thing again the next day. We rented slightly better quality motorbikes this time from one beach up and circled all the way to the southeast side of the island and back, stopping of at various sights along the way.
The motorbike crew Koh Chang Thailand
We had an early night after this as we had decided (for the 3rd time) to go to the Island of Koh Wai tomorrow. The next day we indeed made it to Koh Wai and enjoyed the great hospitality and pristine beaches of Pakarang resort (one of only 3 resorts on the island, which had pretty much no roads and only generator electricity). Koh Wai was pretty much exactly as we had remembered it from our 2007 visit, the ultimate laid back island with pristine quiet white beaches of which some where only accessible buy climbing through thick jungle or kayaking to them. As it was still early in the day and we would be staying only one night we jumped right in to the sea – did some snorkeling.
After the snorkeling we rented kayaks again to explore some of the beaches. After a few deserted beaches and a couple of stops we found another resort on the opposite side of the island where we had a beer. We had about another 90 minutes of daylight left and after being told by a local that both directions were equally long we decided to continue on in the direction we were headed. We had 2 problems however. The Kayak shared by Tommie, Chris and Hans, seemed to be slowly sinking and the seas where a lot rougher on this side and 2 contrary to what the man at the resort had said the distance on this side was quite a lot longer. After 90+ minutes of extreme speed kayaking and emptying kayaks we made it back to our resort just as it got completely dark. That night didn’t get very late and the next day we set back for Koh Chang and we’re headed on to Ayutthaya through Bangkok the day after on the 17th of January.
Arriving in Bangkok – The massive meet up mash up
Backpacking - The arrival in Bangkok good times!
After flying from Shangri La to Kunming on the early flight, a short night and another early flight from Kunming, China we finally arrived in Bangkok on the morning of January 5th to meet up with our mates Tom, Chris and Hans who had arrived a day earlier.
While on the flight from Kunming to Bangkok we got talking to a very nice Chinese girl with surprisingly good English who was on her first trip ever outside China to study further in Bangkok. She was a bit nervous and was supposed to meet a person from the university there to pick her up and had no idea what to do if he would not be there. We decided to go through immigration with her to make sure she was OK and ended up staying in the airport for quite a while to help her find the person that was supposed to be there, but in the end it all worked out.
When we had finally left the airport it immediately struck us how western everything felt and of course how lovely and warm it was after the freezing temperatures in the Himalaya. When we got to the guesthouse we found our mates in deep coma’s due to jet lag and the previous nights drinking. We settled in to our room as they got ready for the day.
Afternoon walk near Khao San Road Bangkok Thailand
Afterwards we went for a wander around the neighborhood and gave them a bit of an introduction to the back alleys and other places they hadn’t seen in the Bang Lamphu neighborhood before, like the hidden mosque and the remarkably tranquil Chana Songkhram temple, which is in the midst of the main tourist areas and around the corner from khoasan road. We ended up having dinner in one of the cheap but excellent cooking school restaurants The flow and went on to have drinks in one of the many street (cocktail) bars where we ended up drinking Long Islands untill late in the evening. And things naturally got pretty messy while scoring disgusting snacks and beers at the seven eleven after closure.
Street bar Banglamphu Bangkok Thailand
The next day we went to show Chris who had come to South East Asia for the first time the shopping craziness of MBK center in the business district (Sukhumvit). Instead of taking a taxi, we decided to take the longer but way more scenic route there using the Express ferry that takes you across the Chao Phraya river to the Thaksin bridge (a scenic boat ride of about 30 mins for about 40 euro cents) from where we took the sky train, an elevated railway which snakes over the road between the sky scrapers of the business district. After this long Journey and a shopping overload we headed back to our area in Banglamphu and headed for the relaxing ambiance of Hemlock restaurant and on to the street cocktail bars again for some Long islands.
MBK Shopping madness Sukhumvit Bangkok Thailand
The next day on the 7th of January, it was time to head for the Archipelago of Koh Chang for some beach side relaxing and island hopping.
Celebrating New Year’s Eve in Shangri-La China
- View over Shangri-La old town Yunnan China
UPDATE: I just found some very sad news that in January 2014 most of the Old Town where we stayed in ShangriLa also known as Zhongdian or Diqing had a major fire which destroyed most of the area. You can see more updates in this thread. If anyone has visited recently I would love to know more about your experience.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
After several hours in a minibus that took us to the start of the Tiger leaping Gorge to collect our bags and then up through the mountains we arrived at Shangrila after dark. It was immediately clear that we had gained quite a bit of altitude as it felt slightly harder to breath and the temperature had dropped to what felt like minus something degrees.
We had booked in a place called Ns kitchen together with various people we met during our trek. After some scouting we found the place in the old town. When we came in the girl behind the counter told us to follow her and walked outside – she kept on walking through the old town for a some minutes after which we arrived to what looked like a different hotel, which looked very closed. She then showed us our rooms which looked ok and told us to call her on the phone that was in the empty lobby bar area if we wanted to leave so she could open the front door of the lobby and lock it behind us.
New Years Eve Yak meat feast Shangri-La Yunnan China
It turns out that the pipes in Ns kitchen itself where frozen so they had struck a deal with a hotel that was closed for the winter to put us up there. There was no-one else staying in the hotel.
We kicked off the NYE celebrations with a Yak meat hot pot dinner washed down with several Dali beers from a local restaurant. Before heading back to the hotel where we claimed the bar/lobby area for ourselves and the other travellers to have our New Year’s Party in front of a log fire.
NYE party in private bar Shangri-La Yunnan China
After new years the hotel slowly drained of people. In the 4 days we had after new years, we did some small excursions around town and outskirts. We didn’t get that far however as the altitude (over 3200Meters) and the cold made it tiring to get around. It was very quiet around town and the atmosphere felt desolate but also a bit magical.
Prayer Flags at Chicken Temple Shangrila (Zhongdian) Yunnan China
As Shangrila is close to the border with Tibet, the population in the Shangrila area is over 80 percent Tibetan and prayer flags and temples are abundant. The lack of tourists also made the experience feel more real to us (few tourists make it out to Shangri-La around late December/January and many hotels close due to the very cold weather and possibilities of closed roads around).
We flew out of Deqen (Diqing) Shangrila Airport to Kunming. It must be one of the highest airports in the world with an elevation of 3280m.
Dêqên runway 3280m - view of the planes & Himalaya
The view from the plane was extraordinary. Pastel peaks of the Himalaya protruding from the mist.
View from the plane from Shangrila to Kunming Yunnan China
Some places to visit in China – Yangshuo & around
After a couple of days exploring Hong Kong it was time to check out some places to visit in China. We headed into the mainland to explore Yangshuo, a touristy but beautiful spot surrounded by karst limestone peaks. The overnight bus would leave Shenzhen in the late afternoon. The local train would take us across the border to the bus station. It sounded very easy, too easy. In reality was not as straight forward as it sounded. The bus station we went into was for shorter local buses only and the people that we asked had no English to explain this. However, after some confusing minutes and being pointed in several random directions we found our way and boarded the bus.
The bus had comfortable horizontal berths and only a few others were occupied. We had a lower berth and upper berth by the window which was great for watching the landscape go by. There were seat belts provided and I thought they were superfluous until the bus set off at a lightning speed ( I estimate about 170KPH at times). We shot through traffic on the major highways, amber street lights blurred past and the city never seamed to end. For the next 4 hours or so we saw city landscapes fluctuating with major industrial zones that seemed to have toxic chimneys and looming factory buildings. Patches of green heavy smog blurred the horizon. It really felt like we had found the worlds central production line. The industrial zones thinned and the mountain silhouettes became visible in the distance with dark grey lines of major roads occasionally heading straight into bright and hazy yellow circles of tunnel entrances. I was pretty comfortable but could not get to sleep with all these memorizing visuals shooting by.
Just as I felt I was getting to sleep suddenly karst peaks surrounded us and we drove into Yangshuo. It was about 3:20 AM, 2.5 hours earlier than our projected arrival time. We wandered of the bus and shook of the touts, making our way to West Street and into the 24 hour KFC on the main tourist drag. We spent the next couple of hours trying to wake up various night guards in hotels that either were unwakeable or could not be communicated with. In the end after watching the sunrise over the river we found a place and went to sleep.
We had come completely unprepared for the big drop in temperature that had taken place (24c in Hong Kong – to around 5 – 10 degrees in Yangshuo). So we were pretty cold but the surroundings made up for it. There was a lot of Chinese tourism going on but almost no westerners in sight. The place had a sleepy atmosphere with many cool characters around. We decided to explore the park and walk along the river for the day and booked in to the Double Moon Guesthouse. A random but ok place. Complete with free daily thermos of hot water (for having tea). In the evening we went to Monkey Jane’s roof top bar. A cozy and buzzing place with many backpackers starting off their evenings. It was run by a very bubbly Chinese girl and her friends.
After having a couple of beers and having dinner I started feeling quite sick. the next 3 days I spent mostly in bed with severe cold flashes an infected throat and all the standard flu symptoms. We only went out for short walks and quick meals as I could not handle more. We also did find some clothes to weather the cold further as the temperature went down. Vourneen spent some of the time to work on her writing.
After 3 shivering days of recovering from the flu and finding warm enough clothes we changed guesthouse again to Bamboo Hotel which was cheaper and more comfortable and set out to explore more of the surrounding areas mostly on foot. We still couldn’t go to far as the temperature was very low and the days were very rainy but we managed to walk further down and up river and enjoy some of the beautiful views the and reflections that the karst peaks and river had to offer. Meanwhile we did our share of people watching , being stared at, watched and having our pictures taken with some of the Chinese people around. They’re reactions to us varied from confusion to enthusiasm and shy interest to down right shock at times. It did make us feel being the tourist attraction occasionally.
It was amazing how much the old and the new mixed randomly around town. 1930’s style trucks with open tractor engines still spluttering along the streets alongside brand new BMW Land Cruisers. All sorts of 2 and 3 wheeled transport weaved in and out sometimes motorised, sometimes not. Old woman bearing baskets of fruit walked next to Iphone fiddling teenagers. Open fire cooking was very common but so was wifi. We walked past an open shacks which had 40inch lcd tv with random Chinese programming on it. This really brought home how quick and confusing the development must be for the Chinese.
After some more lazy days and crazy nights at Monkey Jane’s and around the town including going clubbing with random backpackers and young Chinese people we had hooked up with along the way. It was time for us to head to our next destination, Chengdu on Monday the 13th of December.
Visiting Hong Kong and the Chungking Mansions
Buddha at Repulse Bay, Hong Kong
After hopping on a local bus to the station and negotiating the massive immigration lines around Luohu train station in Shenzhen, we got on the short distance train to Hong Kong which is only about 30 – 45 minutes long. Foggy mountainscapes slowly evaporated into Skyscraper cityscapes as we approached downtown Hong Kong.As soon as we walked out of the station we were mesmerized by the sheer mass of people, infinite towers and multicolored huge signs. We were so disoriented by all this that it took us several attempts to find the building where our guesthouse was even though it was less then 100 meters from the station exit and well sign posted.
Outside Chungking Mansions Hong Kong
We had done a bit of research to figure out where to stay and had not come across almost any budget places except for several guesthouses that were in 1 specific building in central Kowloon district called the Chungking mansions. Chungking mansions has 2 floors of shops and 80 Guesthouses, several restaurants and many other small companies are a housed in its remaining 14 floors.
Our Room in Apple Hostel & foot tan!
There are several lift blocks spread out over the different areas of the ground floor which would lead to specific areas on each of the other floors. The reports online had been mixed and several travellers had reported that they had felt a bit unsafe as there were many Indian hawkers trying to get business in to their restaurants or guesthouse as you made your way up to the elevator and the place looks very run down.
However we soon found out that we had come to the right place as all people we met here were all very nice and interesting and some of the best Indian food and cheapest drink could be found inside the building. We went out up in one of the lifts and got out at some random floors before finding a nicely clean place called Apple Hostel where a very bubbly and feisty Chinese woman called May showed us to a very small but comfortable room.
Hong Kong skyline at night
After getting our accommodation sorted we set out for the harbour to get a night view of the skyline of Hong Kong Island and soak ourselves in the the colorful bustle of the nightlife. The harbour is very nicely landscaped to give you plenty of sit down options with nice views and bustling with people until late. We walked through several malls which all seem to go on endlessly and are never quiet even well past midnight.
Hong Kong Peak Tram
The next day we set out to Hong Kong island and took the peak tram up to the top of the hill. The tram was the first public transport unit build in 1902 but even feels like a modern gadget today. On its way to the top you pass between the skyscrapers at around 45 degree angles which feels quite surreal. At the top we went for a walk around the various viewpoint overlooking the skyline of Hong Kong island and central Kowloon.
Viewpoint overlooking Kowloon
We then discovered a small entrance mentioning pok fu lam country park. We headed down the path just over the top of the hill which instantly descended into lush jungly parkland, where you heard no traffic and saw nothing but greens, flowers and small streams. It was almost as if central Hong Kong that literally lies just over the hill didn’t exist.
Steaming food in downtown Hong Kong
After our hill top run we set out to explorer the trendy mid levels and Soho neighbourhoods that are build up against the steep slopes. One quirky way to get there was to take the public escalator which runs all the way up to the mid levels from the bottom of the hill between the buildings, passing close by first and 2nd story windows of the apartment blocks.
Dragon Sunset at Repulse Bay Hong Kong
We could see several trendy bars as we were rolling up the hill some of which were filled with expats. The area felt strangely New York/European like but the Chinese/Asian touches were never far. After some drinks which were extremely expensive we tried to find budget food which seemed pretty impossible as we passed from one trendy restaurant to another. We decided that these were definitely neighbourhoods best avoided while on a budget although the are very cool.
Sunset at Repulse Bay Hong Kong
We spent the next couple of days wondering down the various night and day markets, temples and we even found very nice beaches just over the hill which were beautiful and had very well kept facilities.
Dragon Sunset at Repulse Bay Hong Kong
In the evenings we often sampled the different hidden areas around the Chung King mansions were we ended up finding some great hidden restaurants and bars, including a Pakistani place on the fourth floor of block B that was like entering a Pakistani community with a great food and a very talkative owner.
Bismillah Fast Food (Shop 75) Chungking Mansions
We also found a tiny Nepalese bar in the far corner of the ground floor – where cheap drink kept flowing as long as you wanted it and there was always a bit of fun to be head. One night we ended up in a discussion with 3 Nepalese Sherpas who were close friends, of which one was a Tibetan Buddhist, one Hindu and another Christian. A heated but friendly debate and many subsequent toasts later the night ended with exchanging email address and stumbling back to the lift of our block.
After about 4 days we decided to leave for our next destination of Yangshuo back in mainland china.
Have you been to Chungking Mansions? What was your experience like? Leave a comment below…
Entering China – a first impression of urban Shenzhen
We flew into China on the evening of December 1st. We had no idea what to expect from this booming metropolis. We chose to fly there due to the cheap air fare and the need to book an inbound flight for our visa. Besides Shenzhen is short hop to Hong Kong where we planned to travel to the next day.
After descending into a thick smog we where thrown into a crazy and way too expensive taxi ride from the Airport to Shenzhen. The traffic was still dense even after midnight and the skyscrapers kept on getting higher with misty neon signs flying past. The area of our hotel looked very grand with major roads and skyscrapers all around yet it felt a bit seedy. We booked the hotel purely on guess work as no reliable information was available in English. The Garden Inn turned out to be a pretty good standard budget hotel. It even had a floor with an internet café dedicated to gamers!
The Garden Inn Schenzhen
The next morning after checking out and leaving our bags in the hotel we went for a wander around the area (Lohu?) before setting of to Hong Kong. The streets seemed a lot friendlier by day with major shopping malls and market areas all around us. We saw no westerners anywhere but the city did have a strangely American/European feel. Not what were expecting at all.
Shenzhen shopping
Christmas decorations were being put up and the people were all very smartly dressed in suits. Even though there seemed to be no other foreigners we could spot all the signs and even the menus had both Chinese characters and English translations. After a quick breakfast of coffee and croissants in a department store we went on to get our bags and on to get the bus to the train station to our next destination in Hong Kong.
Shenzhen city shoppers
Shenzhen city skyline December 2010
Staircase in Shenzhen
Shenzhen skyline 2010
Have you ever been to Shenzhen? Would you like to go? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below?
Exploring Lanta Island – The southern beaches viewpoint and beyond
Lanta island was big enough to spent several days exploring the Island (with our leisurely speeds).
(Published on: Nov 15, 2010 @ 15:45)
First Sunset on Koh Lanta Thailand
One particularly demanding trip that we made twice by motorbike was to explore the southern Beaches of Koh Lanta Thailand. Up to about 2/3 of the Island on the east coast the roads are pretty good but when you get to the southern bays the road suddenly goes into very steep ascents and descents and when you get to Nui Bay the road surface suddenly just stops all together while on a steep descent, turning into a messy track with big sharp rocky patches and muddy/sandy parts. This winds its way up and down over the rocky hills surrounding the southern bays. Very punishing to bums and motorbike but offering beautiful views. on our 2 trips we saw various monkeys and a some stage also an elephant crossing the road with its minder.
Roads in Southern Koh Lanta
Jungle road to Southern beaches Koh Lanta, Thailand
The beaches of these bays looked very nice and felt very remote still with almost no tourists wondering along the shores and dense jungle coming right up to the beach. Unfortunately large scale building projects were happening even here so its probably only a matter of time before the road is improved and the area will loose its remote charm. For now however the southern beaches still feel pretty far flung and quiet. There are a view scattered resorts and bars and the atmosphere is very laid back.
Southern Beaches of Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta southern jungle beach Thailand
Another drive brought us up to the viewpoint cafe which is halfway down a winding road that cuts through the islands hilly interior, to connect the west coast of the island with its eastern coast. It has 2 decks hanging over the Jungle and giving 180 degree views over the paddies/fishponds and the small islands and mainland that lie beyond. The view was mesmerizing and the coffee a mouthwatering strong Arabica definitely added to the excitement.
Hammock shop in Koh Lanta
White cat in hammock shop Koh Lanta Thailand
From the viewpoint onwards we drove on to Lanta old town on the East coast. This quiet one street town was all traditional style with quiet shops and cafes almost no traffic. We saw several cats walking around and it felt as if there were almost more cats than people about. We visited the local Hammock shop which specialised in the handmade hammocks made by minority tribes and sold on fair trade principals. A cat was a sleep in its own small hammock in the corner and a large selection of hammocks was available to satisfy Vourneen’s obsession with anything hammock. After swinging around in the different hammocks for a while we set out to the south western side off the island.
Quirky treehouse accomodation in Koh Lanta
Treehouse bungalows remote resort in Koh Lanta Thailand
On the southwest tip of Lanta Island accessible by a good but extremely winding road sits a quirky and very cool resort with a range of different style bungalows varying from 2 story wooden bungalows shaped like boats to Tree Houses and cave bungalows. There was a pool and the place had its own rocky and sandy beach for chilling and snorkeling. The place was completely deserted except for a couple of staff. We asked for the prices but unfortunately they were a bit outside our budget. After a quick drink it was time to wind are way back home.
Thirsty Monkey at southern beach resort Koh Lanta Thailand
Queen’s day, The Garden & pub crawling, Chiang Mai, Thailand (April 27, 2007)
In the waiting area of Vientiane Airport, we watched our bags being loaded onto the small Laos Airlines plane. To pass the time I read up in the Vientiane Times about a pretty local girl in traditional costume who won the Miss Laos competition the previous day. Then I looked up and a bunch of dignitaries, a camera crew and a girl in traditional costume carrying a bunch of flowers all excitedly walked across the runway. I think it was the president of Laos who had been attending the competition and his crew judging by his photo in the paper.
On arrival in Chiang Mai we were able to arrange a free pick up to our guesthouse Eagle House 2 . It was a bit of a shock after 2 months in Laos and Cambodia to see such a developed city. ATM’s and 7-11’s on every corner, fancy cars, and huge billboards advertising the latest electronic goods. After settling into our en-suite basic room for 290 Baht we rambled around town. We managed to make the most of the happy hour in ‘Kafe’ a cosy pub near Tha Pae gate area. Then back to the guesthouse for some food. However, reception informed us with no apology that the kitchen was closed even though it was supposed to be open for another hour or so. Disappointed we ventured around the corner to Mr. Burger for a great big yummy cheeseburger and proper chips.
The next day we stopped by a wonderful gallery on the far side of the river called La Luna www.lalunagallery.com. There is a wonderful collection of paintings, photography, sculpture, furniture and jewellery from artists based in South East Asia. With our fill of culture and markets, we decided it was time for more beer. So in the rooftop bar across from Tha Pae Gate, we enjoyed a few beverages. This funky bar is covered in dayglo paint and crusties, which add to the alternative atmosphere. We knocked back a few vodkas while listening to reggae tunes and soaking up the view of the city. We chatted to an array of characters including the American DJ who was unofficially married to his girlfriend but still “digged” the Thai girl Peem from the Chiang Mai Cookery School. Then set off to a rather dull drum and bass night in the Top North Hotel.
It was Queens Day and it was our mission to celebrate. We started the evening by playing pool in the “Amsterdam Bar” in the night market area. After several drinks, we got lost and stumbled upon another establishment called “The Underground Bar”. This is where it all went downhill. We were invited in by the resident alcoholics. Then after several more “Singha’s” served by the charismatic Nina we ended up playing darts with some random Canadian backpackers. The darts and beers were flying and suddenly we realised as the shutters went up and the sun beamed through it was definitely time to go. So we got lost yet again and finally stumbled into bed mid-morning!
After a day of recovery with a near death-like hangover we decided to go up the mountains nearby to have dinner. The restaurant was overlooking both a waterfall and the city at sunset. As the sun went down the lights lit up the horizon and illuminated the falls. Then out of nowhere a Thai country and western band started to perform at our table complete with cowboy hats and boots. Now if that wasn’t surreal enough a clown emerged beside me offering a balloon sculpted into a poodle. I really thought I was hallucinating and perhaps they had added something to my drink, but no it was real.
After a few days of bad service and being refused dinner at the guesthouse several times we decided to move to our new abode. That evening we walked over to The Garden Chiang Mai. A smiling lady greeted us and showed us to the rooms. Impressed with the cosy atmosphere we decided to stay for dinner. Tim the owner sat down with us for a chat at one of the tables in the garden. Immediately we felt at home. There is a wonderful collection of characters that frequent the guesthouse adding to the vibe of the place. In one evening while listening to one of the bands that play here you may come across; washed-up hippies, gamblers, hypnotists, photographers, web designer’s, masseurs, a ladyboy and whose ever else maybe hanging around.
We decided before leaving that we would venture back to the Underground one last time. The problem was though that we had no idea where the hell the place was. So we retraced our steps wandering up and down laneways that looked somewhat familiar. After a couple of hours, I realised that in my drunken logic I had written down exactly where the location of the bar was ‘across from the Mae Ping hotel’. On arrival, we received a warm welcome from Nina and met the new owners of the bar a lovely Thai girl and an English dude. We had our final game of darts in the bar before heading back to the guesthouse.
Every Sunday evening in Chiang Mai there is a Market which takes over the city. It also happens to pass by the Garden Guesthouse which was handy for us. There is a gentle, almost magical atmosphere; no one is in a hurry. Locals and tourists ambling along from stall to stall. Traditional music and food smell waft through the streets. At one stall we bumped into the Canadian dart playing dread heads again complete with a large Singha beer in each hand. So we said our goodbye’s both to the Canadians and to Chiang Mai.
OUR FAVOURITE PLACES FROM THE TRIP
|SLEEP|
- PAKSE HOTEL – Pakse, Laos
Boutique hotel with luxury en-suite rooms at a good price
- MASH MELTING POT – Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Great value $4 rooms, laid back atmosphere created by the staff and outdoor seating area
|EAT|
- JASMIN INDIAN RESTAURANT – Pakse, Laos
Excellent service and food (ask for the mint sauce)
- ZIVA’S – Ko Chang, Thailand
Authentic tasty Italian, speciality desert is chocolate biscuit salami
- HIPPO CAFE – Ko Chang, Thailand
For the mouthwatering falafel and BBQ meats
|DRINK|
- VENEZIA – White Sands, Ko Chang, Thailand
Best Italian coffee and ice cream, lovely Italian owner
- NATURE ROCKS – Lonely Beach, Ko Chang, Thailand
Feels like you’ve been a regular for years, local expat crowd, fireshows for tourists
- REGGAE BAR – Don Det, Laos
Great setting on Mekong, best hangover breakfast incl. 5mg valium, 500mg Paracetemol and a shot of laolao
ITINERARY
|THAILAND 2|
Chiang Mai – 27 Apr ’07
|LAOS|
Luang Prabang – 26 Apr ’07
Vang Vieng – 18 Apr ’07
Vientiane – 13 Apr ’07
Pakse – 6 Apr ’07
Don Khong – 4 Apr ’07
Don Det – 31 Mar ’07
|CAMBODIA|
Laos Border – 30 Mar ’07
Siam Reap – 23 Mar ’07
|THAILAND|
Ko Wai – 27 Feb ’07
Ko Chang White Sands
– 20 Feb ’07
Ko Chang Lonely Beach
– 16 Feb ’07
Ko Chang Lonely Beach
– 12 Feb ’07
Whizzing through world heritage, Luang Prabang, Laos (April 26, 2007)
Finally we managed to get out of Vang Vieng. That place just sucks you in and days fly by without you even realising. Just 2 days before our Laos visa ran out we arranged for a bus to Luang Prabang. The transfer arrived and drove us the 2 minutes across to where our bus was waiting on the old airstrip. Two rather budget conscious Israelis rocked up 10 mins before departure and managed to bargain down their ticket price a couple of bucks while delaying the rest of us.
Finally, we got going and soon past Kasi the scenery and winding roads really kicked in. The road zigzagged up and down through mountain range after mountain range. Clouds often hung in valleys and draped like cloth across peaks. The spectacular landscape still did not help the numbing pain in my bum. As we were in the seats at the very back of the bus we felt every little bump and bounce on the road.
We stopped en route and I happily escaped to stretch my legs. I soon realised that the wheel on the bus needed replacing. With only an hours delay and new wheel in place, we drove on again towards Luang Prabang. We stopped once more at the side of the road for a toilet break. However, with no facilities in sight, I crossed my legs for the duration.
7 1/2 hours after leaving Vang Vieng we arrived in Luang Prabang with a full bladder and sore bum. Touts tried to push there business on arrival in the bus station but being Lao they were gentle and polite. So we hopped in one of the Tuk Tuk’s and for a dollar per person arrived at Muong Lao Guesthouse. Located across from Visoun Temple. Friendly helpful staff showed us to our cosy en-suite a/c room with balcony for $12.
20 minutes before the travel agent closed we managed to book 2 seats for the next day to Chiang Mai costing $85USD plus a $10 departure tax to be paid at the airport. So the next mission was to find a bank that was still open so we could pay the tax. On the Sisavang Rd. beside Nisha’s Indian Restaurant there is a bank that for a 3% charge made a cash advance for us. There was also an ATM outside that accepts Mastercard and Maestro but they charge $4.50 per transaction and you can only withdraw a maximum of 70,000 kip ($70USD) at a time.
Starving we went for a pizza at the popular “Pizza Luang Prabang”. Eating outside we soaked up the atmosphere of this world heritage town. It has a strong colonial influence which is evident in the architecture but this is also mixed in with a traditional Lao style. Coming from Vang Vieng it was refreshing to see a lack of neon signs which have been replaced by aesthetically pleasing wooden ones. Knowing that we would return to this beautiful town I didn’t feel guilty for replacing the heritage sights for a large slice and a beer Lao. Next time we can do the cultural stuff, this time it was back to the guesthouse for a much-needed rest.
The Rising Sun Bar & Hazy mountain peaks – Vang Vieng, Laos (April 18, 2007)
On the bus, to Vang Vieng, I woke to dramatic scenery enveloping us on all sides. We passed sheer drops, blue-hued mountain peaks and small villages before finally reaching Vang Vieng. On arrival, we drove through an old airstrip built by the CIA during the ‘secret’ Indochinese war. Mainly built to accommodate its own airline ‘Air America’ used to smuggle opium and mercenaries around Laos. Now it has a few market stalls and used as a bus depot for tourists.
We walked across to Babylon Guesthouse and settled into a $6.50 en-suite double room overlooking the main road. Nick the eccentric English manager showed us to our room where the house rules are laminated and stuck on the wall “We reserve the right to be rude, be abusive, not care, be obnoxious, bigoted, racist, homophobic, heterophobic, agoraphobic, alcoholic, anti-ginger, anti-Welsh, anti-religion, anti-atheist, and offer poor customer service to the point of physical violence”. I thought it summed it up quite well.
Nick had recommended us to visit the Rising Sun bar, while also informing us of the stupidity tax which is in place. He explained for stupid tourists who wish to smoke the local ‘produce’ in public there is a fine by the police of $500. The bar entices you into a drinking session and soon we found ourselves downing a bucket containing tiger whisky and coke while playing a game of pool. The pool tables are levelled by bits of cardboard on each leg which may have contributed to the fact that I actually won a game.
After a hearty breakfast we decided to walk towards the seductive karst peak mountains. Firstly we negotiated a bouncy bamboo bridge to get to the island. Then we walked up the stony shore of the Xong River to the toll bridge. The bridge is decorated with 2 leftover bombshells at the entrance. They serve as small reminders that this country is the most heavily bombed nation per capita in history. Lonely Planet tells us that for 9 years between 1964 and 1973 “cost US taxpayers around $2 million per day”.
A sign pointing to the caves explained that this was a place of refuge during the war. Following a narrow path through the heavy jungle we arrived at the caves. We didn’t spend too long as it was getting late and more beer Lao was calling. On our return the glowing sunset sky made the landscape constantly change colour. Insects buzzed and jungle sounds echoed from the sheer cliffs. Long shadows followed us on the way back through the dried up paddy fields.
On our return, we were offered a shot of ‘snake’ Lao Lao a rice whisky which is served from a bottle complete with cobra inside, of course I couldn’t refuse. That night the gods put on a show for us, with a spectacular display of thunder and lightening which we watched from the roof of Babylon accompanied by 2 bottles of Beer Lao.
After a recovery breakfast we rented a bike and headed to the hills again. We drove over bumpy stony roads towards ‘Python cave’. As the sunset, it cast a warm hue over the landscape. We crossed a bridge so rickety and skinny I thought it safer to wade through the shallow stream while Ali took the bike across. Smiling kids shouted ‘SABAIDI’ (hello) from all directions as we passed through a small ‘ban’ or ‘village’. Then it was time for our daily dose of the rising sun. Buckets and pool games later we were invited to sit with the stonies on the sofa until the early hours.
To cure the hangover we headed out of town again, this time in the direction of Louang Prabang on Route 13. Towards the Kasi district a sharp winding road weaved through dramatic mountains. In the shadow of the towering mountain, a cool breeze acts as natural air conditioning. Further en route we passed soldiers or rebels perhaps? Carrying AK47’s. However they looked completely harmless just chilling on the side of the road and showing off their guns to 2 giggling girls. We stopped to visit a temple and on the way down a local girl carrying a bag on her head posed for the camera. She was utterly amazed to see herself on the digital camera screen, perhaps for the first time?
After another hard day sightseeing and adventuring at the lagoon, we had another hard nights drinking. We were offered by ‘Toto’ a local tuk-tuk driver to drink green Lao Lao. It would have been rude and wiser to refuse. To add to this, an English regular was passing around beer Lao chasers. Then another local character joined our table and it all went downhill from there. As the clock struck curfew time the music was switched off, much to the annoyance of Toto who was cursing and asking “why no Boom Boom?” After a colossal amount of the toxic green liquor we decided that we needed just one more beer. The next morning I woke in a death-like state and it took a few days of detox before venturing back to the bar again.
Great food & lots of water in the year 2550! Vientiane, Laos (April 13, 2007)
Minutes after leaving the refuge of our hotel we were greeted by a group of young smiling kids shouting “Pi Mai Lao!” ( Happy Laos New Year!) proceeded by a bucket of water being thrown over us both. Drenched, we walked a few more paces before a similar incident took place with water guns this time. This was typical of our stay in the tiny capital of Laos, Vientiane (population only 200,000) during its New Year celebrations. To ring in the new year people shower each other with water and they take it very seriously. It is also based on a Buddhist calendar hence we were able to travel through time to the year 2550.
Not only is there plenty of water but the food was great too. Being an ex-French colonial capital the restaurants and café’s boasted a mouth-watering menu with a strong French influence. After downing a couple of G & T’s by the Mekong riverside we decided to indulge ourselves on the highly recommended Cote d’Azur restaurant. It is run by a large French chef and his petite Laos wife. They serve fine French cuisine, pizza’s for the backpackers and great selection of red wine. At home, it would be the type of establishment that would cause your wallet to disintegrate by merely walking through the door. However, the main courses here averaged €5. It was just a pity the intolerable backpacker clientele did not live up to the food.
For lunch, we soon became regulars in JoMa Cafe and the Scandinavian Bakery. JoMa served foot long French baguettes with your choice of filling. The Scandinavian offering a similar selection of fresh sandwiches and pastries. However, its staff really got into the spirit of New Year by hosing us both while seated outside. Alex cunningly got his revenge by throwing his glass of water over the girl much to the other staff’s delight.
This deserted capital by night simply exploded with water by day. Madness ensues. The street filled with pickups carrying gangs armed with water bombs, guns and buckets. The uniform Hawaiian shirts and straw hats. Passing a corner you see a slightly tipsy group dancing to blaring pop music with a water gun in hand completely saturated. Approaching a wat or temple is like entering a war zone. Bouncy castles and music is blaring beside the statues of Buddha. People paying their respects by throwing buckets of water on the statues. Water guns everywhere.
At one of the bigger temples, we got talking to a couple of young monks who explained it was a time of renewal and rebirth no matter if the year was good or bad you can celebrate at a new beginning. They wrapped bracelets around our wrists made from orange thread and blessed us with good luck, good health, and happiness. The positive energy exuding from the monks left me with a warm feeling.
The next night we went to Fathima Indian restaurant on the riverfront. They offered a vast selection of curries at a cheap price most courses being €1. The lady who runs this restaurant really reflects the nature of Laos people. As the restaurant is located in the height of the celebrations in the city she was busy from early in the morning serving tourists all day. It was around 10.30 when we were finishing up and a psychotic French man refused to pay the few dollars he owed. He then proceeded to be rude and obnoxious to both her and her young family. In response, she calmly showed the man the bill again. He stormed out without paying. Instead of getting annoyed she just laughed and turned around and sat down to help an ex-pat hippy improve his Laos language skills with a smile.
Bolaven Plateau & Waterfalls, Pakse, Laos (April 6, 2007)
We took advantage of the free wireless at the Pakse hotel to register our domain and get this website up and running. Pakse is a sleepy town which has a certain charm as the Lonely Planet guide puts it “The centre of Pakse retains the sort of Mekong River-town lethargy”. It became apparent this was contagious as we kept extending our stay much to the delight of the French Hotel manager and his Laos wife. (Apparently, it is illegal to have a relationship with a foreigner here until married)
Eventually, we dragged ourselves away from the screen and went on a day trip to explore the nearby Bolaven Plateau. Once past the traffic, a scenic rural landscape unfolded and soon we approached the turnoff for the Phasoume Resort & waterfalls. There were a small entrance fee and no charge for parking. The entrance obliviously went to good use as the grounds were impressively well kept. Wooden signs pointed us in the right direction as well as the gushing sound of the waterfall itself.
A picturesque fragile bamboo bridge lies in front of the falls and we stopped to take in the impressive view. They have also built a wooden platform for the optimal photo opportunities which a large animated Japanese tour group were taking full advantage of. So we decided to explore another side of the parkland wandering through a ‘tribal village’ although sounding contrived it isn’t and it aims to integrate ethnic tribal groups with tourism in a positive, informative way. Although I did have a problem with the caged animals on display including a young gibbon and a chained young elephant.
There was another waterfall which looked so perfect it seemed man-made and later I learned that it had been ‘enhanced’. The lack of tourists in this section was refreshing. Slices of wooden trunks were laid out as stepping stones making it easier to explore the jungle terrain. After lunch my pale Irish skin had turned a deep red colour so I had to buy a t-shirt to cover up, however, it was the ultimate touristy one ‘ I was in Champasak Province yes very beautiful’ was printed in large letters much to my embarrassment.
Further down the road, we turned off for the Tad Fan falls. Again we heard the falls before we could see them. We peered out from a rickety wooden fence to look at the view. Wow. Parallel streams flow down 120 meters to the pool below. The strong current smacking the rocky shelf halfway before descending further into a misty cloud. I stood mesmerised following one splash all the way down. We went to the restaurant balcony and zoned out on the view over lunch.
2 km further there is another waterfall called Tad Yuang. On arrival, you first pass the top of the waterfall with pretty bridges leading to islands with grassy banks that invited further exploring. Once you walk down a few steps the view slaps you with its intense beauty. To the right is a canyon deeply forested with peaks either side. A deep green haze spread towards the horizon. Halfway down there are seats built on a shelf all made of bamboo attached to a tree so tall it touched the sky. There is a strong mystical feel here a place perhaps in which fairy stories are born. On the journey back the sun was burning orange as it set behind the purple-hued mountain.
To finish the day we stopped at the Delta Cafe for a beer. Alex more hungry than I was ventured out for food later, to the amazing Indian restaurant ‘Jasmin’. Unfortunately, he was approached by a suicidal Slovenian who he couldn’t escape from for some time as beers kept appearing. The restaurant seems to attract these types of odd characters and swarms of hippy’s gather from the nearby backpackers also.
After the long day it was nice to be able to escape to our $19 dollar luxury room (with breakfast, a/c, ensuite and did I mention free wifi!) Tasteful archive photos in black and white adorn the walls and handwoven material in brown and rusty orange colours hang adding a cosy feel to the place while local wood carvings and wicker baskets are scattered throughout the lobby.
Finally, it was time to leave Pakse and we booked an overnight VIP bus to Vientiane the capital of Laos which was a 10-hour bus journey away. However, this VIP bus came with a hostess to greet you and show you to your seat, supply you with free drinks and a tasty rice meal. While eating we watched a subtitled movie from our reclining seats with leg rests and wrapped ourselves in the blankets provided. The lights and screen went out for the night and I slept soundly for the remainder of the journey until the hostess woke us with fresh cold towels. This was the longest bus trip yet the easiest one of our travels so far.
The Big Island, Mekong adventures & a wedding arrangement (April 4, 2007)
We waved goodbye to ‘Mama’ and Don Det while waiting at Mr. Pho’s fro the boat to the mainland. So the chartered boat with a roof that we arranged for turned out to be a skinny longtail with a compulsory extra passenger. We all sailed across the few minutes to the mainland. Jetting past sandbanks and narrow channels once again. Then waited only a few minutes until the next boat to arrive. All aboard plus roof this time all cosy and crowded on the cramped wooden planks. 10 minutes later heading towards the direction of “The Big Island” the engine suddenly decided that it had enough and conked out. However, the Mekong at this point is a couple of miles wide and there are giant concrete pillars in the middle as guides and we were heading straight for them in a very strong current with no engine. Suddenly you realise there are no lifejackets and you probably would have great difficulty in swimming against the current to the shore.
I clutched either side of the boat and hoped for the best as the boat driver began to get agitated as he desperately tried to start the engine. The other guide shouting in Laotian, grabbed a wooden pole and started to try and steer the boat towards the sandy shoreline. After a few nail-biting minutes we docked at the shoreline and waited for help to arrive. After a bit of paddling in the Mekong and chilling with the buffalo to pass the time. Another boat arrived and the guys swapped the engine for a less powerful cc, syphoned the gas and we were on the way once again. However, even though surrounded by idyllic scenery I remained a little tense while we nearly missed crashing into rapids, boulders and strong currents. I have to admit I was glad to arrive at “The Big Island” although the boat did pass several stairways the driver decided to pull up at the muddiest possible point and we had to scramble to the top on hands and knees.
We booked into the first place we saw. The Don Khong Guesthouse. It was a nice colonial-style building with communal balcony with photos of the hotel owners family hanging on the wall. That evening a storm hit out of nowhere and outside clouds of dust blew and people fled for cover. The rain stopped just long enough for us to reach a restaurant for dinner where we met up with an odd German couple and swapped travel stories. Later we grabbed a few cans of beer from the fridge and played cards for the evening. Of course, I lost and had to get the next round. We explored the island by bike the next day and passing temples, fields, shacks and more water buffalo. Stopping to enjoy the sunset on a bench by the river we were soon surrounded by a swarm of villagers of all ages from granny’s with no teeth, kids, babies and smiling local women. As no one had any English the local teacher was sent for to translate for us. She asked if I had any brothers and told us that she didn’t have a boyfriend but was quite keen on European men! So we arranged that my brother travel to the island and mama will arrange a big wedding but not to worry as it won’t cost much its very cheap in Laos for a wedding!
The next day I woke to a note at our door from the English couple who had been travelling with us since Cambodia to say they had sped off to Savannakhet. I guess they weren’t too impressed with the low key Island life perhaps? Later we had a wander down to the posh end where all the fancy hotels were and popped into the Muong Khong Hotel. The President of Laos Mr. Siphandon who has the same surname as the region, stays on the island but no one knows where? However, if I had to put money on it I would say it was at this hotel. While inquiring about tickets to Pakse, friendly helpful staff were gently explaining that the local bus to Pakse would not be comfortable for us big westerners and better to get a VIP Minibus instead. So in the air-conditioned reception we booked our VIP tickets from the well trained smiling manager.
This time the journey from the island was quite different. On arrival at the posh hotel the next morning the sturdy boat was ready and waiting for us with a roof and curtains to bring us across to the mainland. For the first time, we were the only passengers on board. Once docked our bags were carried to a bench in the shady waiting area – this actually lived up to the VIP status and I was loving every minute. The bench overlooked the rocky Mekong with small grassy islands and purple-hued mountains as a backdrop. While we waited the 3 locals laughed (probably at us) while making a fishing net. Our modern comfy minibus arrived and I dozed in the luxury of the spacious backseat which drove us all the way to the front door of the Pakse Hotel where the charming staff greeted us.